In the last couple years American drinkers have reached back in history to resurrect the popularity of the number one alcoholic offering of colonial times. The growing interest in hard cider has increased sales of this pioneering craft beverage and the future for this adult refreshment category looks as bright as a Timbuk 3 song.
Many in the industry have speculated that renewed demand for what is essentially fermented apple juice is in direct relation to the craft beer frenzy and the farm to fork movement. More refined consumer palates have translated to a greater willingness to branch out of their taste bud comfort zone by experimenting with fun, interesting – and sometimes edgy – flavors.
In fact, craft beverages in general have enjoyed great success. Case in point: The sales of mead; spirit barrel-aged beers, wines, and ciders; sour beers; infused ciders; and perry are all up. You name it, consumers are clamoring for experience-based drinking.
Similar to wine drinkers, as cider palates gain more knowledge they evolve from sweeter, more entry-level products like Angry Orchard or Woodchuck Hard Cider (which continue to dominate the sales of hard cider) to small batch craft offerings like those found in boutique wineries such as the ones dotting the landscape of Clark County.
Moulton Falls Winery, located in Yacolt, opened its doors in May of 2012. Since then, owners Joe and Susan Millea have developed a devoted local crowd and routinely draw people from across the bridge to enjoy their wines, wood-oven pizzas, lodgestyle tasting room and notable lineup of live music.
In the last few months, however, cider has been the buzz around the winery. In fact, three months ago cider sales surpassed wine sales and that number will continue to climb after the September contract signing with Maletis Beverage Distributing.
Commenting on how the partnership came about, Joe said “They approached me. We started looking at our cider; started selling more cider than wine. (We) reached out to two local distributors but they said ‘We’ll get back to you’ and two days later Maletis called saying ‘Everybody’s talking about your raspberry cider’ so somehow the word got out.”
Since cider is legally considered wine, wineries are allowed to make it on site. Moulton Falls has expanded their production facility by investing in a $70,000 glycol system, purchasing new pumps, a filter system, tanks and barrels to be used exclusively for their cider line.
Now that Maletis is leading the Moulton Falls cider charge, bottles will be found from all over Southwest Washington to Hood River, the Washington and Oregon coast, and as far south as Corvallis; they’re hoping to have 100 tap handles of their raspberry cider placed in the first half of 2017.
Moulton Falls offers five flavors with plans to experiment with other varieties in the new year. Appealing to a range of drinkers, Joe produces Grist Mill – a sweet, French style; Lelooska – an unfiltered American; Yellowstone – semi-dry English style; Raspberry, which is apple-based and back sweetened with raspberries; and their newest, Sour Cherry, which recently surpassed Raspberry as their top seller. As with their wine grapes, all fruit is sourced from Eastern Washington.
It is this ability to create so many styles and flavor profiles that keep product innovation fresh and interesting.
“The fun thing about cider is it’s four weeks from start to finish. I talked to a guy who has a pineapple jalapeño and a coffee cider. One thing with cider is they’re blending it with everything; bourbon barrels and gin barrels in Vermont and New York. It’s the fastest growing industry in the beverage world right now – even internationally. Millennials and baby boomers and everyone in between is enjoying cider. It’s refreshing and there’s so many flavors,” Joe said.
Since cider is made in similar fashion to wine, it stands to reason aging can only add to its complexity. At Moulton, Yellowstone and Grist Mill are aged longer since there is no back sweetening in the process, but the benefits of aging are lost on varieties that call for the addition of another fruit. The selections that can be aged, however, only add to the appeal of possibilities.
Another exciting marketing angle of cider is its ability to capture a range of drinkers. Moulton added cider as an alternative for customers asking for beer and, according to Joe, its popularity is pretty evenly represented between Business beer and wine drinkers.
Paced to be bottling and canning within the next six months, Joe named Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s and Chuck’s Produce as stores where you can look for this local cider.
Until then “start asking for it at different brewpubs and bottle shops or come out to the tasting room. We have growlers or you can bring your own,” Joe said.
OTHER AREA WINERIES OFFERING HARD CIDER:
Heisen House Vineyards – Winemaker Michele Bloomquist is proud to be the first area winery to release cider. Since 2011, under the label Heisen House Hard Core, she has offered traditional and spiced hard ciders in 750 ml bottles. The traditional is a slightly effervescent, dry English style cider made from a blend of over 10 apple varieties including some from her 100 year-old on-site heirloom orchard. The spiced cider is ideal for the Christmas season; off-dry and infused with a blend of cinnamon, cardamon, clove and other spices. Introduced in 2016 was the Lavender Currant, infused with fresh lavender in bloom at the historic Heisen homestead.
English Estate Winery – In their second year, the oldest winery in Clark County dispenses Hard Apple, Hopped and Raspberry Cider in the tasting room from their two rotating taps. Growler fills are also available. Attending several Portland cider tastings this year, winemaker Jennifer English-Wallenberg became fascinated by the infusing aspect and complexity produced in ciders aged for two years. Not a hop head, she’s pleasantly surprised by how lovely the Hopped Cider is and feels it provides a nice bridge for beer lovers and those who prefer wine.
Pomeroy Cellars – Winemaker, Dan Brink, opened in 2014 with a hard cider on the wine list. Popular with the dry white wine drinkers, Pomeroy’s Hard Cider is not sweet or carbonated. Brink feels its recognition stems from a broad appeal with both wine and beer fans. His experience with English, French and Canadian ciders influenced his direction to provide a very traditional, winedriven style similar in many ways to an unoaked chardonnay.
Rusty Grape Vineyard – For three years this popular winery has been making cider under the label, Rusty Hop Brewing Company. Hard Apple Cider is a perennial offering with rotating seasonal including Black Cider, Pear Cider, Boysenberry Cider and Blackjack Cider. Rusty Grape finds this addition complements their food-friendly line of wines and draft beers and gives drinkers yet one more locally-crafted option to enjoy.
Gougér Cellars Winery – Newer on the scene, Gougér has been making cider for about a year now to test the market and gauge area interest, according to owner, Gary Gougér. His one cider is a blend of apples and can be purchased on tap only. The slightly off-dry, very apple forward flavor profile is on point to pair with his inspired food menu that draws from his many years of culinary experience.
